Backyard Poultry Forum • View topic - GREATLANDER - Questions & Answers and Information

Backyard Poultry Forum

Chickens, waterfowl & all poultry - home of exhibition & backyard poultry in Australia & New Zealand
Login with a social network:
It is currently Sat Jun 24, 2017 12:44 am

All times are UTC + 10 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 83 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6  Next
Author Message
PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 7:03 am 
Offline
Proud Rooster
Proud Rooster
User avatar

Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2010 6:34 pm
Posts: 300
Location: SEQ
Hello Lacey and thanks Ben

I hope you have worked out whether the valve is being held open by a speck of dirt or if it is being held closed due to a build up of calcium or a change (reduction) in the head pressure.

As Ben says, push the float under and make sure water is able to flow in, then lift it up and make sure it shuts the flow.

_________________
bobpeel@greatlander.com.au


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 7:04 am 
Offline
Old Mother Goose
Old Mother Goose
User avatar

Joined: Fri Nov 03, 2006 5:06 pm
Posts: 5886
Location: Canberra
Lacey, for fine adjustment, i screw the float in and out on its arm. When I tried bending the float arm, it was hard to find the right spot. The float can move in and out on its arm by screwing or unscrewing about 1 cm. this should allow fine tuning. Perhpas the float slipped out on its arm during moving.

Hope that helps.

Again, the water system and float valve appear to be the wekaest link in the Greatlander. $30 extra on the price would be money well spent to improve this aspect Bob.

_________________
Breeder of Blue Laced Red Wyandottes.

See www.bluelacedgold.wordpress.com for details


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 7:06 am 
Offline
Proud Rooster
Proud Rooster
User avatar

Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2010 6:34 pm
Posts: 300
Location: SEQ
Hello Raf

Yes, I revised the automatic water filling arrangements for the new Top Hatch range.
I took the opportunity also to change to a different float valve.
The plumbing kit I supply is also more comprehesive ... see photo
(the exit hole is pointing upwards for show ... normally it points down)
The arms are two-piece moving parts and to adjust the angle/depth, the two parts are held together with a bolt and a wing nut

The new float valves fit in the exact same size hole as the old ones.
I have a few boxes in stock.

Image

_________________
bobpeel@greatlander.com.au


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 7:07 am 
Offline
Proud Rooster
Proud Rooster
User avatar

Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2010 6:34 pm
Posts: 300
Location: SEQ
And this is the plumbing kit ... it finishes with a stainless braided hose tail with 1/2" nuts at each end.
It's the same familiar part that you see going from under your toilet cistern to the stop cock

The nuts are small enough to fit through my grommets
The nuts spin freely while the hose remains straight ... so there is no kinking of the hose while doing up the nuts and undoing them

This way, the tail can be disconnected from the rest of YOUR plumbing and comes out of the set for cleaning.

You decide to plumb to either mains pressure or to a tank and whether you want to use quick-connect garden hose couplings or not.
If so, all you need to buy is a 1/2" Male to 3/4" Female adapter which takes you from the tail we provide to a garden hose male quick-connect fitting.



Image

_________________
bobpeel@greatlander.com.au


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 7:07 am 
Offline
Club Official

Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2012 8:18 pm
Posts: 282
Thumbs up on the new float valve. The 2t tophatch has been spot on without a glitch this time.

_________________
Lawnton Poultry Club


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 7:08 am 
Offline
Proud Rooster
Proud Rooster
User avatar

Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2010 6:34 pm
Posts: 300
Location: SEQ
Based on my Top Hatch design we have developed a brand new range of Greatlander All Hatchers.
These are aimed at the serious amateur breeder, with pricing that brings them withing reach

The baby in the range is this 2BH - a 2 Basket Model with capacity for 180 chicken eggs/chicks

Image

The vaporising water tray is beneath the top hatch and on a sliding shelf which is an air baffle.
The space under the baskets is for an optional passive water tray

Having all the electrics up top keeps them out of the way when washing the inside of the case.
The construction material is 50mm foam sandwiched between white colourbond steel (Appliance White)

The circulating fan blows softly and indirectly, obliquely down along the left wall
Softened air circulates left to right across the base beneath the baskets, up the right wall, and right to left aross the top
The water tray shelf, when slid across from it wall (at right) `trains' return air to pass over the water tray, picking up humidity.

The link below takes you to the appropriate page on our website

http://greatlander.com.au/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1

The next one up in the range is this 3BH All Hatcher - a 3 Basket Model with capacity for 270 chicken eggs/chicks

Image

Capacity in the three baskets is
270 chicken eggs / chicks
300 guinea fowl
195 duck or turkey
100 goose or peafowl
700 quail

_________________
bobpeel@greatlander.com.au


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 7:10 am 
Offline
Proud Rooster
Proud Rooster
User avatar

Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2010 6:34 pm
Posts: 300
Location: SEQ
Naturally, as you would expect from Greatlander there is a 254nm UV sanitising lamp in these hatchers.
It gives an inexpensive chemical-free bio-safe clean between hatches.
Of course the lamp must NOT be switched on during a hatch or it will blind chicks.

In addition the metal frame is removable, leaving the cabinet empty for cleaning

The colourbond interior provides far less oportunity for pathogens to take hold than does textured galvanised steel.

The plastic used for the baskets is a food grade polyethylene - chosen because it is invisible to the sanitising light
Clean the baskets as normal then give them a spell under the sanitising lamp.
The rays, shining from their one source, disinfect the baskets on all their surfaces.


Large-Capacity Greatlanders T to clear

I have a limited number of large-capacity double-width incubators in the `classic' T range to clear

Egg Capacities are

8T = Set 704 or 880 / Hatch 180 or 360
10T = Set 880 or 1056 / Hatch 180 or 360
16T = Set 1408 or 1584 / Hatch 180 or 360

Adding a 1T Extra Rack (available in Double Width) adds 176 eggs to the setter
Adding a second hatching basket (double stacked) doubles the hatching capacity to 360

Please email or private message me if interested in doing a deal.

_________________
bobpeel@greatlander.com.au


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 7:11 am 
Offline
Old Mother Goose
Old Mother Goose
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2012 7:26 pm
Posts: 5274
Location: Dooralong NSW
Hi Bob,
we found out the cause of the leak in the water tray tonight, it has been cracked when the holes were drilled for the element and sealed up with sealant but it appears to have now failed, and is leaking quite badly.
We have put a temporary tray in whilst we dry out and try to reseal the original.
Regards,
Ange.

_________________
Lacy
A passionate breeder of the beautiful Wyandotte
Huntervalley Wyandotte Club


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 7:12 am 
Offline
Proud Rooster
Proud Rooster
User avatar

Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2010 6:34 pm
Posts: 300
Location: SEQ
Mmmm ... If you have no luck let me know and I'll send you another tray
This time I'll drill the holes.

The plastic material is somewhat brittle
It has been chosen for its transparency to the UV lamp more than for its mechanical properties.
It's the same material as the egg trays and hatching basket.

_________________
bobpeel@greatlander.com.au


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 7:12 am 
Offline
Old Mother Goose
Old Mother Goose
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2012 7:26 pm
Posts: 5274
Location: Dooralong NSW
No worries Bob,
I'm sure we can fix it, but whether it will be an ongoing problem, only time will tell.

_________________
Lacy
A passionate breeder of the beautiful Wyandotte
Huntervalley Wyandotte Club


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 7:14 am 
Offline
Proud Rooster
Proud Rooster
User avatar

Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2010 6:34 pm
Posts: 300
Location: SEQ
Warming Daytime Temps - Ventilation to Prevent Overheating

Has everyone started opening vents?

To clarify, the ventilation fan is 10cms in diameter.
When it is called to come on to correct the temp downwards, it pulls hot air out of the top of the chamber.
In a set that has no vents opened, the replacement air must come in via small gaps in the door seal and around the water inlet grommet.
The volume that can be brought in through these gaps is less than the air volume moved by the fan - so the fan creates a partial vacuum.
So, as soon as it stops, some hot air will be re-ingested into the set by the vacuum.
If this is allowed to continue on a hot day, it will set up a feeeback loop and the set will overheat.

Open some vents
1 Remove the outer grommets, leaving them intact for use when the weather cools
2 Cut out the membrane from the inner grommets and remove it entirely.

Observe the set in the hottest part of the day ... see how the vent fan is coping
If it is on for too long or too often, the chances are that the set is `choking'

In extreme heat, the ventilation fan can be inverted so when it is called to come on, it brings in a dose of outside air.
This air is quickly distributed by the equal temp fan ... and out via the open grommets.
I've sent sets to Darwin and to New Guinea with the fans inverted and they run smoothly
My All Basket Hatchers also have the ventilator fans inverted

_________________
bobpeel@greatlander.com.au


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 7:14 am 
Offline
Champion Bird
Champion Bird
User avatar

Joined: Sun Oct 02, 2011 11:06 pm
Posts: 886
Location: Sunshine Coast, QLD
Hi Bob, Just a helpful tip – if the grommets are simply cut across the centre a 50 mm long piece of electrical conduit can be popped through the split in the grommets and makes a great ventilation tube that can then be capped when not needed or when trialling different options and can then be left in place.

Danny

_________________
http://www.geckodan.com
The CHOOKSHOP http://www.geckodan.com/the-chookshop/
email geckodan@bigpond.com

Breeder of Exotic waterfowl, wild type Muscovy, Dutch bantams, Phoenix and Yokohama Fowls.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 7:15 am 
Offline
Proud Rooster
Proud Rooster
User avatar

Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2010 6:34 pm
Posts: 300
Location: SEQ
That's a great tip Danny
I'll pass it on

_________________
bobpeel@greatlander.com.au


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 7:17 am 
Offline
Proud Rooster
Proud Rooster
User avatar

Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2010 6:34 pm
Posts: 300
Location: SEQ
Mechanical End-Stops to Prevent the Automatic turner from Over-rotating

Hello All

There has been a recent new random case in an older set where the turning movement has failed to stop, resulting in crushed eggs.
This was a clean machine with limit switches (older style) that still functioned normally after the event.
The focus fell onto the cross-line capacitors on the turning motor.
I have since spent countless hours of testing components here, and so have the manufacturers of the components involved.
However the tests are not conclusive. There are several factors that may cause a random over-turning.

Fitting mechanical stops as shown is positive inexpensive insurance.
It is also recommended that your incubator is plugged into a Surge Protector such as the ones used for all other electronic equipment.

Please email or call if you have any questions


Image

..ooOOoo..


INSTRUCTIONS – FIT MECHANICAL STOPS

Mechanical Stops will prevent the rack from over-rotating in the event the turning motor or a limit switch has a malfunction.
They are placed at the top of the turns as shown.

Image

Here they are fitted 12” apart and on the opposite side wall from the turning mechanism.
The bolts are 3/8” x 4” Zinc Plated Coach Bolts. Under the cup, a section of the shank is square
Drill 3/8” holes inside but 13/32” holes outside. The square shank buries, and the head pulls down flush.
Bolts need to have less than 2” of bare shank - with no thread

1 Initiate a manual turn until the limit switch is clicked and the movement stops
2 Locate and mark the position of the first bolt along the side wall
3 Initiate a manual turn in the opposite direction and mark the second bolt
4 Drill 1/8” pilot holes from the inside, through the inside colourbond only
5 With a 3/8” bit and the drill held level, drill from the inside until it starts into the outer plate.
6 With a 13/32” bit, drill the hole from the outside in the outer plate
7 Insert a bolt, fit nut and washer and tighten until the head is flush and the nut is firm
8 Slip some plastic tubing over the bolts to keep things tidy and clean
9 Do a test run. Initiate a manual turn in both directions and check for correct position
Some fine tuning is possible by bending the metal arms that hold the limit switches.
10 Make sure your turns are timed and the turn duration is limited by adjusting F2

Take the rack to the backup start position - Up arrow to trip a switch, then back a short way

..ooOOoo..

Run your Greatlander through a Surge Protector

For those who missed it in the reading ... it is prudent to run all electronic equipment through a Surge Protector.

In our case, the cross-line capacitor's rating is only 10% above the service voltage.
If that 10% buffer is exceeded for an instant, current `jumps' across the cross-line capacitor and the direction of the motor is reversed.
This reverse rotation will now be fed via the capacitor NOT via the limit switch ... hence the absence of control and the over-rotation

A Surge Protector will filter any external over-voltage spikes. It will also protect the controller.

If anyone is interested in the battery of tests that we have made please contact me

_________________
bobpeel@greatlander.com.au


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 7:18 am 
Offline
Proud Rooster
Proud Rooster
User avatar

Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2010 6:34 pm
Posts: 300
Location: SEQ
OK this is a copy of the post in Canna Kids `Plucker' thread

Hello Canna Kid

I don't wish to appear to be self-promoting ... but it may `flesh' the thread if we say online what we said about my electric scalders.
(Canna Kid has bought one of my pluckers ... so naturally I'm following his feedback with interest)

OK, so in the picture is my 70 litre scalder which is economical to buy (that's the self-promotion bit out of the way) but also very economical to run.
It's stainless steel, has an automatic thermostat, has a drain, a hinged lid. etc.

There is an optional basket for dunking small poultry in batches (e.g. quail)
Originally I made the baskets out of stainless mesh but the mesh was fiddly to clean.
Now I make them out of stainless sheet with 20mm holes drilled all over.

Bottled gas is dearer than electricity and with a gas burner you have to watch the temperature, fiddle with the flame and add cold water to temper the pot.

70 Litres is about the right thermal mass to hold temp between batches. (I also make a 140 Litre Scalder ... some use it to boil ham)

There's a bit more info here http://greatlander.com.au/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=4&products_id=34

Image

_________________
bobpeel@greatlander.com.au


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 83 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6  Next

All times are UTC + 10 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
cron
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group
©2004-2014 Backyardpoultry.com. Content rights reserved
freestone