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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 6:34 am 
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Proud Rooster
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Posts: 307
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Here is a picture of my 1T Extra Rack.

It shows the four `hangers' which articulate so as to allow the rack to swing in exact alignment with the rest of the egg carriage.

To fit, you draw out the four clevis pins at the bottom of the carriage (first draw the split pins)
Then fit the clevis pins back in place, but this time through the holes in the hangers.

Image

This is a picture of two hatching baskets stacked in a Greatlander 3T.

In this set there is generous room for the second basket with no other measures necessary.

In some sets, the corners of the egg-carriage may go down further into the top (second) basket and may hurt a large chick/poult/gosling.
(You need to observe what happens in your set and weigh the risk).

To prevent this from happening, I make a triangular "No-Go fence" out of black plastic gutter guard (Bunnings)
See in the top left hand corner.

The square shaped `corral' of gutter guard in the foreground is what I use for pedigree-breeding.

I find this gutter guard can hold a sharp crease and will retain its shape.
I stitch it together with cable ties. The little corrals go in the dish washer between hatches.
It comes in a 300mm wide rool - what I've used in the picture is a too-narrow offcut.

Image

Greatlander Incubator showing there is provision for TWO hatching baskets stacked one above the other
This allows using the 2T set as an "All-in All-out" hatcher.



Lacey wrote:
Hi Bob,
Looking at the picture of the baskets, the tray above doesn't appear to come down to far into the basket, is that at full tilt. If so, it would only be an issue with already hatched chicks, are you able to overide the auto turning so it can be done manually. In my IM's I can turn the auto off and operate it manually by pushing a seperate button.

In any case it doesn't look like a big issue to work around, to get the extra tray.


Hello Lacey

I hope you don't mind me answering your questions in this thread - it's a `Sticky Thread' - so other members can easily find answers later.

Yes it is at full tilt , however did you notice I say that it is a new 3T and that one should observe what happens in their own set?
These are hand-made machines Lacey - there will be some variations from model to model and from set to set. (Older models please check)
While I always align the rack and the basket to make provision for fitting two hatching baskets, it pays to check your set and fence off the corners if it looks necessary
In a 5T I was running 2 yeas ago I felt it was a 50/50 precaution, which is why I mentioned the issue.

Disabling Automatic Turning
Yes, the manual will tell you how to turn off auto turning and how to do manual turns.


Bob Peel

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 6:35 am 
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Old Mother Goose
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Bob,
I didn't notice that was a 3T, until after I had done the post. I am pretty confident that the 2T is more than adequate for us. However what you have shown, looks very simple to employ should we feel the need.

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Lacy
A passionate breeder of the beautiful Wyandotte
Huntervalley Wyandotte Club


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 6:36 am 
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Proud Rooster
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Posts: 307
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Hello Lacey

I was just out to check on your 2T running ... it will be on the truck on its way to you on Monday
It has ample room down the bottom.

For the interest of members, 5T is quite a tall set ... and the insulated composite panels come in 2400 x 1200.
This is why 5T (and 10T) are that little bit tighter at the bottom.
There is still room for two baskets or a 1T Rack.


Bob Peel

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 6:37 am 
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Old Mother Goose
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Thanks Bob, can't wait.

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Lacy
A passionate breeder of the beautiful Wyandotte
Huntervalley Wyandotte Club


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 6:38 am 
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Proud Rooster
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Posts: 307
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How to raise humidity while hatching in a Greatlander

OK

Here is the only bit of adjustment you would need to make in a Greatlander that has been sent out set-up ready to go - (the exact values are for chicken)

Hello Ben

I've got a reminder to check if you're clear on what needs to be done to change only the humidity for the 3 days of the hatch.

There's a full description of it in the user manual but basically you increase P8 and P9 to 62 and 58 respectively, while leaving the RH SV at 55.
If you do it this way, it does not interfere with the settings I've programmed for you.
(However, if you changed the RH SV with the routine "SET - OK - Up arrow to 62 - OK" ... you would need to re-enter ALL the vaues of Temp & RH as per the settings sheet I gave you).

Give me a ring if you need while you're doing it for the first time





Just to elaborate for those members who do not have a user manual ... there are 3 ways to run a Greatlander.
1 - By using the factory default values ... (average settings for average results - the dummy method)
2 - By changing only the Set Values for Temp and Humidity (letting the controller generate the related values for cut-ins, cut-outs, alarms, etc - the lazy method)
3 - Or by following my settings ... (with the collaboration of experienced Australian breeders - the smart method).

There is a bit going on behind my settings - here's a few :
The heater's cut-ins and cut-outs are manipulated such that the element does not have time to heat up much. (Cooling a hot element, the set takes time to re-stabilise)
The humidifier's cut-in and cut-out range is tightened so it is on for short sharp bursts of vaporising rather than just `boiling water'
The turning movement is timed for each set and the turn duration is manipulated so the limit switches are backed up.
Etc

Bob Peel

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bobpeel@greatlander.com.au


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 6:40 am 
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Proud Rooster
Proud Rooster
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Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2010 6:34 pm
Posts: 307
Location: SEQ
I have just been asked what the `factory' default values are exactly
These are the values programmed into the controller's permanent memory by its manufacturer.
By necessity, these are a bunch of averages for all species of poultry and waterfowl, in all stages of their development and hatch, for all the climatic regions in the world and through all the seasons.

They are a surprisingly useful benchmark for those who have no previous knowledge of incubation, particularly with chicken.
There should be no surprise here ... the settings are biased towards chicken because chickens are the most plentiful species

Incidentally, if the controller encounters a conflict, it will re-set itself with these factory values.
You will know it has done this if you see the temp and RH at 38 and 60 and you can confirm it definitely if the turn counter has reset to zero.
The logic here is that the controller `flushes' out all user-inputs in the hope that it was the false input(s) causing the conflict condition.

All the sponatneous resets reported to me by breeders here have been in hot weather when the provision for ventilation was inadequate.
If the exhaust fan cannot pull out excess heat fast enough it will trigger a reset.
There is a passage in the manual about running a Greatlander in hot conditions, which you can do all summer long.


This is a picture of two hatching baskets stacked in a Greatlander 3T.

In this set there is generous room for the second basket with no other measures necessary.

In some sets, the corners of the egg-carriage may go down further into the top (second) basket and may hurt a large chick/poult/gosling.
(You need to observe what happens in your set and weigh the risk).

To prevent this from happening, I make a triangular "No-Go fence" out of black plastic gutter guard (Bunnings)
See in the top left hand corner.

The square shaped `corral' of gutter guard in the foreground is what I use for pedigree-breeding.

I find this gutter guard can hold a sharp crease and will retain its shape.
I stitch it together with cable ties. The little corrals go in the dish washer between hatches.
It comes in a 300mm wide rool - what I've used in the picture is a too-narrow offcut.

Image

Greatlander Incubator showing there is provision for TWO hatching baskets stacked one above the other
This allows using the 2T set as an "All-in All-out" hatcher.



Bob Peel

_________________
bobpeel@greatlander.com.au


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 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 6:41 am 
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Proud Rooster
Proud Rooster
User avatar

Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2010 6:34 pm
Posts: 307
Location: SEQ
Lacey wrote:
Hi Bob,
Looking at the picture of the baskets, the tray above doesn't appear to come down to far into the basket, is that at full tilt. If so, it would only be an issue with already hatched chicks, are you able to overide the auto turning so it can be done manually. In my IM's I can turn the auto off and operate it manually by pushing a seperate button.

In any case it doesn't look like a big issue to work around, to get the extra tray.


Hello Lacey

I hope you don't mind me answering your questions in this thread - it's a `Sticky Thread' - so other members can easily find answers later.

Yes it is at full tilt , however did you notice I say that it is a new 3T and that one should observe what happens in their own set?
These are hand-made machines Lacey - there will be some variations from model to model and from set to set. (Older models please check)
While I always align the rack and the basket to make provision for fitting two hatching baskets, it pays to check your set and fence off the corners if it looks necessary
In a 5T I was running 2 yeas ago I felt it was a 50/50 precaution, which is why I mentioned the issue.

Disabling Automatic Turning
Yes, the manual will tell you how to turn off auto turning and how to do manual turns.


Bob Peel

_________________
bobpeel@greatlander.com.au


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 6:42 am 
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Old Mother Goose
Old Mother Goose
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2012 7:26 pm
Posts: 5274
Location: Dooralong NSW
Bob,
I didn't notice that was a 3T, until after I had done the post. I am pretty confident that the 2T is more than adequate for us. However what you have shown, looks very simple to employ should we feel the need.

_________________
Lacy
A passionate breeder of the beautiful Wyandotte
Huntervalley Wyandotte Club


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 6:43 am 
Offline
Proud Rooster
Proud Rooster
User avatar

Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2010 6:34 pm
Posts: 307
Location: SEQ
Hello Lacey

I was just out to check on your 2T running ... it will be on the truck on its way to you on Monday
It has ample room down the bottom.

For the interest of members, 5T is quite a tall set ... and the insulated composite panels come in 2400 x 1200.
This is why 5T (and 10T) are that little bit tighter at the bottom.
There is still room for two baskets or a 1T Rack.


Bob Peel

_________________
bobpeel@greatlander.com.au


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 6:43 am 
Offline
Old Mother Goose
Old Mother Goose
User avatar

Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2012 7:26 pm
Posts: 5274
Location: Dooralong NSW
Thanks Bob, can't wait.

_________________
Lacy
A passionate breeder of the beautiful Wyandotte
Huntervalley Wyandotte Club


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 6:46 am 
Offline
Proud Rooster
Proud Rooster
User avatar

Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2010 6:34 pm
Posts: 307
Location: SEQ
How to raise humidity while hatching in a Greatlander

OK

Here is the only bit of adjustment you would need to make in a Greatlander that has been sent out set-up ready to go - (the exact values are for chicken)

Hello Ben

I've got a reminder to check if you're clear on what needs to be done to change only the humidity for the 3 days of the hatch.

There's a full description of it in the user manual but basically you increase P8 and P9 to 62 and 58 respectively, while leaving the RH SV at 55.
If you do it this way, it does not interfere with the settings I've programmed for you.
(However, if you changed the RH SV with the routine "SET - OK - Up arrow to 62 - OK" ... you would need to re-enter ALL the vaues of Temp & RH as per the settings sheet I gave you).

Give me a ring if you need while you're doing it for the first time


Just to elaborate for those members who do not have a user manual ... there are 3 ways to run a Greatlander.
1 - By using the factory default values ... (average settings for average results - the dummy method)
2 - By changing only the Set Values for Temp and Humidity (letting the controller generate the related values for cut-ins, cut-outs, alarms, etc - the lazy method)
3 - Or by following my settings ... (with the collaboration of experienced Australian breeders - the smart method).

There is a bit going on behind my settings - here's a few :
The heater's cut-ins and cut-outs are manipulated such that the element does not have time to heat up much. (Cooling a hot element, the set takes time to re-stabilise)
The humidifier's cut-in and cut-out range is tightened so it is on for short sharp bursts of vaporising rather than just `boiling water'
The turning movement is timed for each set and the turn duration is manipulated so the limit switches are backed up.
Etc


I have just been asked what the `factory' default values are exactly
These are the values programmed into the controller's permanent memory by its manufacturer.
By necessity, these are a bunch of averages for all species of poultry and waterfowl, in all stages of their development and hatch, for all the climatic regions in the world and through all the seasons.

They are a surprisingly useful benchmark for those who have no previous knowledge of incubation, particularly with chicken.
There should be no surprise here ... the settings are biased towards chicken because chickens are the most plentiful species

Incidentally, if the controller encounters a conflict, it will re-set itself with these factory values.
You will know it has done this if you see the temp and RH at 38 and 60 and you can confirm it definitely if the turn counter has reset to zero.
The logic here is that the controller `flushes' out all user-inputs in the hope that it was the false input(s) causing the conflict condition.

All the sponatneous resets reported to me by breeders here have been in hot weather when the provision for ventilation was inadequate.
If the exhaust fan cannot pull out excess heat fast enough it will trigger a reset.
There is a passage in the manual about running a Greatlander in hot conditions, which you can do all summer long.

I'll need reminding when it gets closer to summer to go over the gradual steps that lead up to extreme hot-weather running

These involve observing how well the exhaust fan is coping (it is working at pulling a vacuum with the vents all closed) and opening vents to allow the set to `breathe'
Later, when daytime temps are about the same as the set temp or indeed higher, the ventilating fan should have its flow reversed.


Bob Peel

_________________
bobpeel@greatlander.com.au


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 6:47 am 
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Champion Bird
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Joined: Sun Sep 13, 2009 8:59 am
Posts: 790
Location: Glen Innes NSW
Bob, hi

will you be having a stand at the Ekka,

thanks

_________________
Learning and enjoying Wyandottes both big and little.
Stars cant shine without darkness (Unknown)

Peter


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 6:47 am 
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Proud Rooster
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Joined: Sun Mar 07, 2010 6:34 pm
Posts: 307
Location: SEQ
Hello Peter

No unfortunately, I only thought about it after the surprisngly good reception I had in Canberra ... but by then it was too late to book a spot.
If you're coming to Brisbane from out bush, just give me a hoy and come and say G'day.
We're on Bayside Brisbane.

Bop Peel

_________________
bobpeel@greatlander.com.au


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 6:48 am 
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Champion Bird
Champion Bird

Joined: Sun Sep 13, 2009 8:59 am
Posts: 790
Location: Glen Innes NSW
Thanks Bob,

I will have time problems on the days I am there but we will have to try and work something out, I would like to have a look, see what we can come up with.

thanks again

_________________
Learning and enjoying Wyandottes both big and little.
Stars cant shine without darkness (Unknown)

Peter


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 6:49 am 
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Old Mother Goose
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Joined: Tue Oct 09, 2012 7:26 pm
Posts: 5274
Location: Dooralong NSW
Hi Bob,
I hope you don't mind me asking this here,
The 2T has been running since yesterday midday, Temp is fine, humidity is fine.
When I checked on it thismorning, there was condensation present around all the switches and on the glass of the door. Our overnight temp gets down to 2-3 deg at present.
Is this normal or is there something I need to check, it appears to have used hardly any water, I still haven't set the eggs yet, they will go in this afternoon.

_________________
Lacy
A passionate breeder of the beautiful Wyandotte
Huntervalley Wyandotte Club


Top
 Profile  
 
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