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PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 4:58 pm 
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Old Mother Goose
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Yes, will have two hooked up to the thermostat. I have been told it is a good idea to put a third, very low wattage but permanently on light in as well. Is this right?

The fridge is a small white 'bar fridge' 80cm high by 40cm lenght and breadth. Has shelves for three trays.

I was planning on putting a 2cm vent in the freezer section, where the light globes are (call it my heating box), so that the air comes in and is warmed up straight away before the fan blows the air into the main section. The exit vent will be on the bottom (cooler air sinks??).

Will that suffice?


Raf

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 5:31 pm 
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Prime Pekin
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Raf , Position of vents sounds OK , BUT make adjustable with slides to block off as required 20 mm will be too big otherwise. A pilot light is OK ,but remember chicks will go to the light when they hatch. I make the trays into small caged areas so chicks on hatching are restricted to these. I am not sure how much you have been able to pick up from the sites listed ,but it is important to have a wet bulb thermometer as well as normal. What is the thermostat you have? Just be aware that electronic units normally can not handle the high humidity and will give you errors or missreadings if you locate in the unit. 2X60 WATT globes will easily heat the fridge size you mentioned ,especially if you have 15 watt pilot.What fan were you planning to use? The small fans you find on the power supplies to PC's are ideal since they are low velocity high volume and no bearing issues.Easy to find since a lot of old PC's around. Good luck ,if I can help more let me know. Martin


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 30, 2007 6:40 pm 
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Old Mother Goose
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Thanks Martin,

Vents will be adjustable, good idea.

I will use a 15 watt pilot light, as you confirmed for me it is a good idea, thanks.

I will have a seperate hatching tray, so the chicks will be contained.

I have ordered an $80 thermostat off ebay. Its called a Reptaprobe. They assure me it is what I need as reptiles (for which it is made) are more sensitive than chickens and it has a range from 10 - 40 degrees.

I have a 2 station digital weather station that measures humidity and temperature. I have found that it measures humidity well, but maybe its not right......

I have the small fan from an old PC in my current incubator that I plan to use. It is 12volt. Will also put a deflector on it as i read (maybe here on BYP) that it provides more even temperaturs if its directed down 2 sides.

Cheers
Raf

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 8:13 am 
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Dapper Duck
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Hello all,

I am not so well in English language so I have made some pictures of my "deep freezer incubator"

Image
Image Image

I am still working on this project.
You can find it here http://www.backyardchickens.com/web/viewblog.php?id=49606-freezer-incubator

I hope you like my deep freezer incubator.

Arie


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 1:12 pm 
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Old Mother Goose
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Fantastic!

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 6:56 pm 
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Junior Champion Bird
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chookster wrote:
... with a small viewing window. If the window is going to be too difficult though I can do without one for now.
Hi Sarah,

Some bator builders have used the window from an 'old' microwave as the window in their bator.

You'd have to cut a suitable size hole in the fridge door, mount the window, then hold it in place with something like silicone sealant.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 11, 2010 9:37 pm 
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Dapper Duck
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Haan wrote:
chookster wrote:
... with a small viewing window. If the window is going to be too difficult though I can do without one for now.
Hi Sarah,

Some bator builders have used the window from an 'old' microwave as the window in their bator.

You'd have to cut a suitable size hole in the fridge door, mount the window, then hold it in place with something like silicone sealant.


I have used 6mm thick tempered glass that served as a shelf in a bar. I have to cut the correct size with a glass cutter. I cut a hole in the door with an angle grinder. Between the 2 glass plates( in- and outside), the space is at a distance by laths with a thickness of 5.5cm. The glass plates are held in place with silicone sealant. For finishing and strength I used aluminum strips. I use 2 glass plates for a better insulation.

For now I use an air circulation fan that I have from an old microwave oven achieved. I bent the blades that suck up the air and blow across the top. The air will pass the heat source and goes along the sides of the machine. Make sure the fan can move enough air. I prefer to use a fan with large blades and low speed. So you have a better circulation.

Ensure there is adequate space between the wall and the contents of the machine so that air can reach everywhere.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 12, 2010 8:39 pm 
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Dapper Duck
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Martin Holmes wrote:
Raf, You need to be able to adjust air flow into the unit for 2 reasons , eggs hatching need oxygen and to be able to expell CO2, plus humidity control. You can govern the humidity by the available surface area of water in the unit and the passage of air in and out. The fan is the way to go since it, one helps humidity and secondly gives reasonably even temp throughout. If you are heating using an incandescent light bulb ,I would use 2 that way if one blows you do not have complete heat loss. 2 x60 Watt will most probably do the job depending on the size of the unit.


In my still air incubator I use 4 25 watt bulbs. These are parallel connected. If a lamp is defective, the other three keep working. In my deepfreezer incubator I use a heat cycle of 100 watts. This can only be used for forced circulation. Take a fan that is strong enough to get the air in every corner of your incubator.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2011 12:03 am 
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Newbie
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Hi Sarah.
I have just done a bar fridge incubator if you need any advice or where to get thermostate humidity dial etc just ask it has cost me $100 to make, i even know how to make a very simple semi auto egg turner out of reo wire.
Regards Anthony.


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