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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2008 11:22 pm 
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Superior Bird
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This is what I made this arvo.
Image

This is what it looks like without the lid.

Image

This design is based on one I made for a 3yo nephew.
This shows that all the working parts are out of harms way.
Image

The shelf support also acts as a conduit to ensure that the warm air pushed by the fan is evenly distributed along both sides of incubator.
I have used 50mm x 25mm rectangular polythene stuff usually used to cover data cables. Shown below is how the air circulates. The fan blows into the space where the lights are, pushing the warm air out through holes all along the incubator.
Image

It is very easy to put together. I did this one this afternoon in about 2 hrs. I had made one similar a week ago so I knew what I was doing.

You need about 3m of normal pine board. Board is 140mm x 19mm.
I sheet of 450mm x 900mm x 12mm MDF.

You need a good tray to put the eggs on. I got the tray from the Recovery Centre, which is the recycle arm of the local tip. It is out of an old fridge most likely.

Some tips:

Measure how wide your egg tray is. Mine was about 380 mm. Then cut three pieces of your board about 10 mm longer than the width of your tray. These are the 3 boards I have numbered 1,2 & 3.
Cut another piece of board 40 mm longer than the other 3 to be the cover for where all the electronics goes.

Cut a hole to suit your fan in one of the boards. Cut the holes to suit the conduit, if you don't want to use conduit a couple of holes about 25mm will work fine too.
Cut your tray to the length you want, and cut incubator sides to suit.
Assemble all your boards, screw them together, then attach to the MDF base.
Position the fan board so that the lid and the cover for the electronics meet on top of it, as it has to support both.

I have also run a strip of 25mm x 12mm board around the top. 400 x 20 would be fine too.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 10, 2008 11:33 pm 
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Flock Master
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Has this machine actually hatched anything? There seems to be some critical parts missing like a water tray and something to control the humidity.How do you control the temp without a thermostat also using pine and MDF may limit the life span.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 1:45 am 
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Superior Bird
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william wrote:
Has this machine actually hatched anything?

Like I said william, I made it this arvo. It's good but not THAT good.

There seems to be some critical parts missing like a water tray and something to control the humidity.

Yes william, it is missing a water tray. I will buy a suitable sized container from the reject shop in the next day or two. Being Sunday the shop is not open. I thought about putting a baking dish in it for the photo's but missus was watching me. :lol: :lol:

How do you control the temp without a thermostat

It does have a thermostat in it william. It is a microprocessor and digital temperature sensor type I make myself. At the moment it is, using radio TX / RX chips, logging it's temperature once every second onto my computer. There is no need to adjust the temperature with this thermostat, it is programmed at 37.75 °C, and will sound an alarm if the temperature varies by 0.5°C. The only switch/dial is a push button that will put the alarm into "snooze" mode for half an hour. This is handy for when you need to open the incubator to turn the eggs etc.
It's not your everyday run of the mill thermostat you would expect to find. I am trying to encourage people to make their own incubators, it's not rocket science.
I have installed the thermostat as just a circuit board without the usual box and plug set up I would expect most people would buy.


also using pine and MDF may limit the life span.

Pine and MDF will not limit the lifespan. Its painted and edges will be sealed in case of accidental spills. I think you, like many, may be under the impression that incubators are places of high humidity. That is certainly not the case. 50% relative humidity in climate terms is described as DRY, 60% is considered comfortable.





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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 10:53 am 
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Fiesty Fowl
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Great job mate :wink:
Do you sell your thermostats?? have an E2 that has the old style thermostat and would like to update it.
Cheers jd


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 11:16 am 
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Discerning Duck
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Hi Denis,
Thats a great idea.
(Using this photo below as an example here.....)
Image

Would it be possible to make the box deeper and add your 25 degree BBQ motor egg turner? and after the 18th day remove the egg turner and then put the eggs on the wire tray for hatching?

Also could you put the water tray under the light so you can make more humidity or make a seperate department infront of the electronics so the fan will blow over the water tray to product humidity?

I really love your ideas Denis.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 12:27 pm 
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Discerning Duck
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Very impressed Dennis! I think this and the ability to build sheds are probably the two things I'm most jealous of when I see folks DIYing on here! :lol: I suspect if I were to try it, it would A.) take a lot longer than 2 hours, B.) not look anywhere near as neat and C.) my attempt to make a thermostat would work better if my 2 year old tried to do it. :lol:

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 1:10 pm 
This is a wonderful, generous how-to, and I'm grateful to Denis for taking the time to put it up.
Jennie


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 1:39 pm 
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Assist Admin
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chooken wrote:
This is a wonderful, generous how-to, and I'm grateful to Denis for taking the time to put it up.
Jennie


I would second that! :D


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 1:58 pm 
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Superior Bird
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I can hear the gears turning over in your head Kowan.
This tray is 38cm by 38 cm a width chosen to make the tray look as though it was made for incubator ..
The auto turn needs a square of about 40cm for the 36 egg tray from bellsouth. I find that if I use a sheet of MDF 450mm wide as the base the autoturn fits.
I think the sheet I bought was actually 450mm x 900mm.

Normally I have been making my incubators 450mm x 600mm long and 180mm high, with a light and fan at either end. My reasoning being it would be almost impossible not to have good even temperature across the eggs. It is probably overkill though ...

This one is different, not as high, only 140mm high which is enough.

I did one once similar to what Kowan proposed, I had an auto turn shelf leaning in one. The sides needed to be at least 240mm. I wouldn't recommend it though, is really ugly. If you want to do auto turn do a cabinet style with extra hatching shelf and plenty of room for a deep water dish. Last batch of eggs I did, I was actually a few thousand km's away in Qld for two weeks. I came home and they started hatching that night.

If it is a quirky challenge that you are after Kowan, a more elegant solution would be just to mount the motor under the incubator above and tilt the whole incubator. The auto turn can spin on the floor rather than a shelf.
The challenge is of course the water container. An open topped container will of course spill most of it's water out. A sealed water container however is a different story. Lot's of tupperware containers are good enough to hold water and not leak even if they are full and tilted.
A small cpu fan mounted on one of the uphill corners of the lid and a small hole in the lid in the other uphill corner.
The cpu fan pushes some of the saturated air out through the other hole. It is the size of the other hole that allow you some control over how much humidity is in the bator.

With the incubator I have shown in this thread, I will change the lights to be 2 x 50W globes. I am not sure that one 20W will keep up if the other blows. I will also run conduits along the top too, it may be overkill but it is $2.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 2:30 pm 
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Discerning Duck
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Yeh the brain to turning :) :)

What I haven't figured out yet is does the BBQ motor turn all the time or does it just turn now and then?

Yes I could put two Tupperware containers on a 25 degree angle under the egg tray giving enough space for the motor shaft to past between the two containers then on the 18th day remove the eggs tray and replace it with a wire tray then put the whole Bator level to the table. The water containers can be high enough to compensate for the level once the Bator is flat again.

This is getting interesting :)

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 3:38 pm 
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Proud Rooster
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i read this and got all excited till you started talking about temp controls etc etc then thought NOOOOOO thats me gone :lol:


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 3:49 pm 
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Discerning Duck
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Indian Game wrote:
i read this and got all excited till you started talking about temp controls etc etc then thought NOOOOOO thats me gone :lol:


But there is no fun in just going out and buying a ready make incubator.
Building your own has so much enjoyment in it. :) :)

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 5:04 pm 
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Flock Master
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Thanks for responding to my questions, it has cleared them up for me, i didn't know you had a thermostat installed in your original post. How much would you expect the total cost to be? and the only thing it needs now is an auto turn but i'm sure you could whip one up in an hour or so. :lol:

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 5:27 pm 
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yes def more fun making it, and i could build it, but i'd be buggered when it come to making the thermostat bit of it work


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 5:39 pm 
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They are some great ideas, helped me out a little. I started making my incubator on the weekend, wasnt quite as difficult as I first thought and is coming together nicely. Not quite as neat as yours though. One idea I did have which might be nice is getting a photo frame and glueing the glass in the frame and using it as window on top so I can watch them hatch. Because that is the fun bit after all, and I dont want to miss it.


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