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PostPosted: Fri Jul 10, 2009 11:56 am 
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Proud Rooster
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:nail: :nail: :nail: :nail: :nail: I wish i had that many eggs. I havn't even got any poultry but i'm getting 3 chicks this spring and i'm super excited :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 1:23 am 
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Superior Bird
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rwood wrote:
Denis,

Can my thermostat handle heat cord? Or is it set up for lights only?

Raf


Sorry Raf, have been away in Cairns/Port Douglas for a week. Heating isn't something that was on my mind until I struck Tullamarine. As I walked out onto the tarmac with sunglasses on top of my head the frame around the lens just snapped. :shock:

Yeah your thermostat should handle heat cord but the reptile stuff usually is very very long to get the amount of power you need. I think it takes too long to heat up and cool down again.

What I like about down lights is I could make the compartments smaller than with an ordinary globes as you don't want the globes too close to the walls. Having said that you can use pieces of tin (from a flattened baked beans can) to stop the globe burning the walls. Also pieces of cement sheet work well too.

The ducting systems I used were again only a space/materials type thing. It improves your heat distribution in what would otherwise be a cold end, warm end scenario. Just bear in mind I used it in incubators half as "long" as yours is.

With a heat source and fan at either end (thermostat sensor one third of way along) I don't think ducting would be needed.
From what I have been able to see having done heaps of different types of set ups and logged all the results etc. having a heat/fan source either side or top and bottom in taller cabinets is a no brainer, it is really hard not to get the same temp throughout.
There might be some merit in the long compartment at the back. Doesn't have to be the height of the back wall, I tend to use a pine board that is 120mm wide by 12mm thick.
From my gallery are two incubators that show this arrangement.
Image

Image
The compartments were actually only 100mm high in these two.

I consider a hatcher and an incubator the same thing, it's the same temperature.

One thing I would do Raf, sooner rather than later is to get your shelving organised. What you get determines your layout a lot. I'm thinking this incubator is high enough to have two levels and room underneath for water. Being a top opening only incubator is going to be a bit of bugger to get access to bottom level with the top rack blocking it. I'd go for bottom level being full length. Top level only half as long but the ledge it sits on being full length. So you turn half the bottom eggs, slide the top rack down the other end and turn the half. Hatching basket being the other half of the top level it can be easily lifted out while you do this. Better still do what a lot of us do and use something like an old fridge rack with some of the horizontal bars removed as a very quick way of turning eggs.

It will be a lot eggs!

In the second the top of the compartments was the ledge the egg rack sat on.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 13, 2009 10:53 am 
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Old Mother Goose
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Thanks Denis.

2 levels :shock: :mrgreen: :aaargh:

What a cracker!! That will get the wheels turning even more. :biggrin:

Thanks again mate, you have been a great help. Now I am back to thinking that the double ended heat source is the option to go with..... :hmmm:

Raf

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 12:00 pm 
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Old Mother Goose
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Well,

Time got away from me, and minor surgery took my out for a few days, but yesterday I had to finish the hatcher / incubator quick smart as day 28 had rolled around.

So here it is, sorry, didnt take pictures along the way, but once this hatch is done I will show you more details;

Image

There are 50 duck eggs and 20 chook eggs in there. Pleanty more room. ANd thats just the bottom level!

I went for the double ended heat boxes. I used the double lights sold as a pack, so as to only need one transformer for each set. A fan at both ends, off set top and bottom. Seems to form a circular air flow.

Below is a picutre of the first egg to hatch, also happens to be my first ever duckling!

Image



So, issues I need help with.

Getting to temp and holding it
The four 50W light globes took ages to get to temp, and seem to spens more time on than off, which indicates to me that they are struggling to keep temp, however, that being said, its 37.6 almost contantly, so my only concern is that I would like a bit more heat transfer. SOlutions....

1. I am going to put a cover over each end setion, which will mean all the air has to come in around the light fittings, this should help drag more air over the hot globes.

2. More heat sinks, i.e. water. Im going to put lunch box water containers along the bottom so as to increase the thermal mass and heat sinks. This might help.

Loss of Air
I had some trouble sealing the box. Seems my rushed effort havent quite sealed it. However, while this will play some havovk with humidity, I can seal it for each hatch with duct tape.

CHANGES TO COME

I am going to add another level, allowing for double the capacity. SHould hold a couple of hunderd eggs then. Plenty enough for me.

Also, I am going to tidy up the wire seperators, but these are great for seperating each breed, hen, mating etc. Very happy with this.

Overall, Im chuffed.

Raf

Overall, I am chuffed

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 12:03 pm 
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Champion Bird
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Looks great Raf
well done!
wish i had something as good as that - i have a plain old hovabator :(
congrats on your first duckling too - very cute!
Question - do you have problems with newly hatched chicks running all over the other eggs and potentially cracking them? I had this issue and one chick cracked an egg in my first bator hatch - the chick did hatch later on but would live to avoid this happening
any suggestions?

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 12:33 pm 
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Superior Bird
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Looks very good Raf, I am very impressed! Cute duckling too. What type of duck eggs did you end up with?


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 3:11 pm 
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Old Mother Goose
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jmac wrote:
Looks great Raf
well done!
wish i had something as good as that - i have a plain old hovabator :(
congrats on your first duckling too - very cute!
Question - do you have problems with newly hatched chicks running all over the other eggs and potentially cracking them? I had this issue and one chick cracked an egg in my first bator hatch - the chick did hatch later on but would live to avoid this happening
any suggestions?


Jack,

Im pretty sure its not a huge issue. Never had a problem before. But, I remove them at 24 hours old, so that they arent too big in the hatcher. That being said, I reckon most flapping about is done in the first few hours.

Coops,

In there I have mostly various coloured Runners (not white), some Khaki campbells and some Swedish Blues.

5 out now. Sweet.

Developing issue.

My humidity sensor is broken. Not sure of the humidity. I have a 20 x 20 water dish in there. Also spraying whenever I think of it. My gut tells me its too dry. But Duck eggs are strange beasts to me. ANy rule of thumbs on Humidity? i.e, 'foggy glass good' etc.

Raf

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 4:01 pm 
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Fiesty Fowl
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Hi Raf,
It looks good to me.
I'm not a big fan of high hymidity. Just so long as you have water in your bowl and good air flow.

Take a pic when all the chicks are still in there. It will be interesting to see how much room you have once they have hatched.

Daza


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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 4:15 pm 
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Old Mother Goose
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Thanks Daza,

I am in that window of panic and worry. I wont worry too much.

Raf

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PostPosted: Sun Jul 26, 2009 4:18 pm 
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Site Administrator
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It looks good Raf. Great job. You might want to consider putting a grill over the fans. I've found chicks can be attracted to them and bad things can happen.


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 10:26 am 
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Junior Champion Bird
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looks great Raf. are they just 50 watt down lights that you have used and also did you get your temp gauge and thermostat of ebay? wouldn't mind making 1. hope all goes well

thanks

seb

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 11:10 am 
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Old Mother Goose
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Yep, just the 50W down lights. I chose 12V so their would be a little less death potential running around, but in reality, there is 240 coming into the box, so caution is still high. I also ran the cabling across the back from one end to the other, and that is only 12v, which made me happier.

Getting a humidity tester today, and some more seals.

As an update, about 30 out now. So Im happy.

No Donna, none of yours yet. :D

Raf

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 11:14 am 
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Golden Phoenix
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I was going to ask which ones were Donna's!!


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 11:45 am 
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Fiesty Fowl
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Hi Raf, if you are worried about your wiring just put a circuit breaker on the lead.
Even a cheap one works very well.

Daza


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 27, 2009 6:19 pm 
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Junior Champion Bird
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hi raf Where did you get your thermometer from? the little white and green thing

seb :biggrin:

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