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PostPosted: Tue Aug 25, 2009 8:38 pm 
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These have seen the worst of a few wet seasons in the bottom of a box in the shed. Not glamorous, but perhaps someone may find them helpful at some point.
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2009 12:33 pm 
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Wow thankyou. Now I have a question....under the turning of eggs section....do I really have to turn each tray back to front every 2 days??


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2009 2:59 pm 
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Well it's not essential. If it's a manual turn, it will have a handle on the front of the machine. Just turn move it to the opposite side to turn the eggs. There's no need to take the trays out if you don't wish to. I know it says that in the instructions, but I never do it and mine hatch without any problems. Perhaps it's ideal to turn them so the eggs are rotated and the blood vessel development is even, but it obviously doesn't cause huge problems if you don't.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2009 4:43 pm 
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Ok, Thanks for the reply.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2009 6:16 pm 
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I would think it would have more to do with airflow. A broody hen moves the eggs constantly all around the nest, as temperature varies depending on it position in the nest. The same thing happens in most incubators, and rotating the position of trays (or eggs) helps them bring the hatch period (time from first chicken to last chicken) closer together. Most incubators are notorious for variability in temperatures throughout the machine due to to each machine having unique and varied air flows. If you have a spread out hatch period, then you could benefit by changing egg position every couple of days. You will find that if you placed an accurate thermometer at different positions in the machine it will read slightly different. There are a lot more factors much more critical to a good hatch, so as mentioned already its the least of your worries :)

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2009 8:21 pm 
well blow me down my AH has just found his instruction manual when he bought his E1 in 1991. i have never seen it before and plan to read it...after running the things for the last ?? (except for the last 3). his has less mould on it. i was quite amazed at how well it has survived....or the fact he found it.

i have just kicked started the machine as when you sell eggs you have to test them yourself and i have run out of broody hens. the light bulb blew first up. we are going to order a new wafer thermostat (standby) and look for some rare 150 watt bulbs to keep in storage. i have also demanded a couple of new ceramic brooder warmers seeing he just accepted some eggs from stelan after i had said 'no'. :shock:

i would love to know other peoples tricks on running these machines here are some of mine:

A. i load up once a week. candle eggs and put eggs into the hatching tray as close to this time as i can. this means the opening of the bator is kept to a minimum.

B. i turn the eggs (handle operated a number of times a day).

C. when the majority of eggs have pipped i jam tissues into the air vents to increase humidity so much that water drips from the door. i remove the tissues after 12 to 24 hours.

D. i put newspaper under the hatching try to prevent the floor of the bator getting waste on it, this prevents rust and allows easy cleaning.

i have also found the chickens that hatch best are the ones that fall down from the trays.

i would love to know anyone elses tips on this style of incubator.

k


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 29, 2009 11:22 pm 
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I am lucky as I have a separate E2 hatcher
Like the idea of newspaper on the bottom must do that.
I use chux to plug the holes and mine have hatched very well still clinging to the auto turn good when you loose track of dates. :oops:
Have not used the wet bulb complete waste of time fill the trays and off it goes.Life is too short to be stressing over humidity readings.


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