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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 8:41 am 
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Site Administrator
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Thanks Haan & Denis for the switch suggestions.

Denis wrote:
Wire up your pump straight to your 12V plugpack and your pump should run. Then you cut one of the two wires from the plug pack and insert your switch between the two ends you cut.
Now if your switch is working the pump should switch off and on every time you move the float ring up and down. If it doesn't then it's probably a dud you can't do anything about.

Yep, done this, doesn't do anything. Once it turns itself on, it's stuck on for a random period of time until it clicks itself off. It turns on every time the magnet in the switch flicks on, but it's sticky.

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I notice yours doesn't seem to have as long a shaft as mine. Pull the plastic circlip off and see if having more travel helps. Then inspect the inside of the float and you should see the dark ring of the magnet I think. On mine that ring is not centered, if yours is the same maybe the float ring was put on upside down.

Yep, tried this. I think you're right. We have a dud.

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I've already done the auto turn for the E1, much easier than I anticipated. 20-30 minutes tops.

Swift job. Our incubator is loaded with the first two trays of the season. The auto turn is working beautifully, but as you know, it took us a lot longer than 20-30 minutes. We are very pleased with it though, although it's only taken a third of the load so far. :D

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2011 10:41 am 
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Quote:
Swift job. Our incubator is loaded with the first two trays of the season. The auto turn is working beautifully, but as you know, it took us a lot longer than 20-30 minutes. We are very pleased with it though, although it's only taken a third of the load so far.


Nice to hear your autoturn is ticking over so sweetly. To my knowledge you are the first to have done it. Pretty inspiring when you think of all those thousands of people thinking it was too hard .... I certainly take my hat off to you.
Funny to think of all those engineers out there, with all their training, experience, facilities and abilities (some real, some imagined) didn't have a clue where to start and you have yours up and running nicely. :thumbs:


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 1:35 am 
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Dapper Duck
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I have used a 20l container to gravity feed my incubator tray.
1. container must be air tight when closed.
2. feeder tube needs to go below the rim of the tray
Has worked like a charm and no pump/power required.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 1:03 pm 
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I know that method works, I've used it for water container for a rabbit (hence the Nov 2009 pic from my gallery) but I've never been game to use it in an incubator.
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PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 2:42 pm 
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Arhhh.....your drawing is neater :hmmm: :roll: .

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 3:07 pm 
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good job. I had to stop hubby from continuing on the auto water modification cos I had duck eggs to go in. We are halfway there, once I can stop putting eggs in there, which is hard to do, even if you have only one or two special ones. Its especially good to have this feature during the last 3 days cos opening the door to top up water lets so much good humidity escape. Even though at times I cant see through the condensation on the glass window. Its good to be able to gauge water level from outside.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 4:03 pm 
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rita;
The condensation is more to do with the viewing window glass being a lot cooler than the air inside the incubator. It isn't a good indicator of the humidity inside the incubator at all really. The colder the temp outside the incubator the cooler the glass and the more likely to get condensation on the window.

To avoid condensation on the window, keep the glass warm. On incubators where the window is on the top it is really easy to just put a cover over the window, eg a book, newspaper, dry facewasher ....

If you are looking in from the front a curtain of something like cardboard. Even a piece of clear plastic cut from the lid of takeaway container and taped there might improve the view.


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