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 Post subject: Egg bound
PostPosted: Thu May 11, 2006 8:31 pm 
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Dapper Duck
Dapper Duck
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Joined: Thu May 11, 2006 7:29 pm
Posts: 25
Location: Ballarat (vic)
Wat is the best treatment for a egg bound chicken :?:


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PostPosted: Fri May 12, 2006 10:16 pm 
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Fiesty Fowl
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Joined: Sun Mar 05, 2006 3:55 pm
Posts: 1219
Location: Millmerran
Hi,
I've read these things, never tried or had to - though:
Holding chooks vent over steaming water - not too close, to relax the oviduct, oiling vent with olive oil and if neccessary, breaking egg inside chook and washing out with warm salty water - as I said, haven;t had to try any of these though. Have you tried the search option at top of page and enter egg bound, you might find some helpful previous posts this way.
Hennypenny :wink:


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 Post subject: egg bound
PostPosted: Sun May 14, 2006 7:05 pm 
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Showy Hen
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Joined: Thu Dec 01, 2005 9:05 am
Posts: 124
What exactly are the symptoms of a chook being egg bound?
kim T


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PostPosted: Mon May 15, 2006 10:28 am 
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Champion Bird
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Joined: Wed Aug 24, 2005 10:33 am
Posts: 951
Location: Australia
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EGG TRACT DISORDERS

In peak production a hen can lay one egg every 23-26 hours.

In the making of an egg the yolk is shed into the oviduct and as it travels down the other parts of the egg are added.

When the shell is completed the egg is laid.

(a) Egg bound
A fowl is termed egg bound when an egg is lodged in the oviduct and cannot be expelled by the bird. This can be caused by over large eggs or by fatigue of the muscles nominally used in laying an egg.

The egg can be removed by inserting a lubricated finger into the cloaca and using the other hand to squeeze the egg out, if this fails the egg should be broken with a sharp object and all the pieces of shell removed.

Holding the bird over a pan of hot water may relax the muscles of the oviduct and facilitate the removal of the egg.

After the egg is removed the bird should be allowed to recover in a separate coop, to prevent other birds from pecking the cloaca. This procedure can only be carried out with small flocks. In a large flock an egg bound bird should be culled.
Reference:Agnote No. 667K2April 1996Agdex No: 450/652ISSN No: 0157-8243

http://happyhenhouse.proboards43.com


Re: Egg Bound


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Egg bound hens
A hen is said to be egg bound when she fails to lay her egg
This is a common condition, and may result from inflammation of the oviduct, malformed or double yolker egg, or a too large egg in a young pullet

The bird seems very restless
She will drink little and eat little
She will tend to stand all hunched up
She visits the nest regularly in an attempt to lay her egg
Hew oviduct may end up protrude due to excessive pushing by her to eject the egg; internal haemorrhage or exhaustion may occur and the fowl may die
She may smell badly
Her vent will look quite red and protrude
She may have faecal matter that has built up behind the egg, if you see white liquid that will be her urates trying to pass (urine in chickens)

Sit her in a tub of warm soapy water
Make sure the vent is submerged for about 30 minutes, this may seem like a long time, but you have to relax the vent area and make is subtle for the egg to pass through, it really does help the hen, 85% of the time this will be all that you will need to do for her and the egg will pass out with a little push from her
You can rub some lubricant around the vent area if you think that may help too, KY jelly, petroleum jelly, Vaseline or Olive Oil all work fine.
Make sure you isolate her from the other hens, or they will peck at her vent causing more damage

Put her into an isolation cage, put plenty of news paper down first and then put heated towels down they will act like a heat pad for her, no drafts when she is wet or she will catch a chill
You can heat up towels in your microwave, works a treat
If you have a heat pad that would be even better, put plenty of towels over it or it will get messy
Leave her for a little while to see if she passes the egg, if not, repeat the warm water and soap again

Some people just use the heating pads, this sometimes seems to relax the muscles and allow the egg to slip out

If this doesn’t work, you may have to resort to removing the egg manually, not a nice task, and she will complain about what you are doing bitterly, you will need two people to do this task

Using KY jelly, Petroleum jelly or Vaseline, insert your finger in the vent
With your other hand you can press gently on her abdomen moving the egg down the oviduct towards the cloaca
Once you can see the egg, if it won’t pass, then rupture the egg and gently remove all the shell
Some have suggested you use a sharp instrument, I would not recommend this at all it could result in causing the hen internal injuries
The shell of the egg will be very sharp when broken and could also damage the chicken internally
Once you have broken the shell, make sure you remove every particle carefully
The cloaca should then be washed with a weak warm water/salt solution, this is to make sure all the egg contents and shell has been removed from inside the hen, if it isn’t it could cause bacteria to start growing inside her, and then you’ve got an even bigger problem to solve

Once the egg has ejected you will want to keep an eye on her for a while
There may be another egg backed up in her oviduct system, especially if she lays an egg every day or every other day

Sometimes they absorb the egg, but this is very unlikely and very unusual
If you can’t find the egg and it has gone from the hen, more than likely she has eaten it shell and all

If it has ruptured inside her, you should look for small pieces of shell, or evidence of any cuts around the vent area
Just remember while your looking and sticking your finger in places she would prefer you didn’t, the egg shells can be quite sharp and may cut you and her
If you do find any cuts around her cloaca, rinse with hydrogen peroxide
Watch her for listlessness, dull eyes, and signs of fever
Infection can come on pretty quick

Keep a close eye on her, this could happen again to her and she will need immediate action to fix the problem

How to help prevent the hen from laying any more eggs
If there is any small prolapse gently push it back into the chicken with your fingers.
The chicken should then be put on a maintenance diet of wheat and water and put in a dark cage.
Leave the hen there for a week.

However, it is important to restrict the chickens diet to maintenance only for possibly a couple of months. This does work!! Alternative to maintenance diet is feeding the chicken enough to keep it alive, moving and keeping warm plus enough extra feed for it to produce eggs.

You may find that by reducing the feed it brings on a forced molt

By reducing feed intake so that the bird has just enough feed to keep it alive, moving and keeping warm you are feeding for maintenance only. The chicken will not lay eggs and so give it the best chance of recovery.


Re: Egg Bound

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It can also be caused by a hen laying a soft shelled egg

In a humans endeavor to help the hen, they tend to stick their finger inside the hen to feel if she does in fact have an egg stuck up inside her ......... if it is a soft shelled egg this invariably breaks the thin membrane covering the egg and spills the contents of the egg inside the hen

Causing a problem that could have more than likely fixed itself had the hen been put into isolation and some warmth applied to the muscles... ore just left alone to relax the muscles so she could lay the soft shelled egg..............but with interference it will turn into a very large problem.................. the egg may well turning septic inside her and unless she is throughly cleaned out she may well die from poisoning

So... please.. don't stick your finger inside to check if there is an egg stuck inside the hen
Look at her outwards appearance to come to your conclusion


http://happyhenhouse.proboards43.com

Re: Egg Bound

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Poultry health - egg-laying disorders

G Coutts, reviewed by P Kent, DPI's Agency for Food and Fibre Sciences

In some hens, the egg-laying process goes wrong.

Egg production falls or stops, there is a messy, odorous discharge from the vent or the bird's abdomen swells.

Egg bound

This happens when an egg is formed in the hen's uterus, but she is unable to lay it.

The straining with unsuccessful attempts to lay can cause the oviduct to partly protrude.

Other fowls cannibalise the affected hen and she may die.

The condition can result from a large egg, growths or tumours in the oviduct, diseases affecting the nerves or mucus secretion in the oviduct.

An experienced person can help remove the egg by lubricating the oviduct and breaking the egg, but humane culling is usually the best course.
http://happyhenhouse.proboards43.com

Re: Egg Bound


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Complications after egg binding

Isn’t it interesting how your perceptions change with time! Once upon a time, when treating egg bound birds my first consideration was to get the egg out of the bird - the reasoning being that the egg was the cause of the problem and once removed the problem disappeared.

During many years of treating egg bound birds I have come to realise that the egg is not the only consideration when dealing with these birds.

The first thing to assess when you find a “bound bird“ is whether it is actually egg bound! Often people jump to conclusions when they find a hen on the floor with a swollen abdomen - not all these are egg bound. You should be able to feel the hard egg in the lower abdomen.

Catching up birds that are in the process of laying may actually cause the egg to stop moving and then they become bound!! Be careful that you do not overly interfere with the egg laying process.

The next important consideration is the well being of the hen.

If the bird has been bound for some time she may well be in a critical condition because of changes to blood flow to the kidneys. Birds that are bright and happy, but have an egg stuck should be treated conservatively (that’s vet speak for do nothing).

Many of these birds will pass the egg in due course.

Often the larger the bird the more tolerant they are of egg binding.

Many of the Ostrich we dealt with in the past few years would have a uterus full of old eggs that did not pass yet they appeared very normal, yet a finch that is truly egg bound is an emergency.

Once the egg is removed the bird may not necessarily be cured. Many of these birds have underlying conditions that need treatment if the bird is to breed again (and that is generally the aim).

Getting the Egg Out

Removing the egg may be difficult or at worst life threatening to the bird. Applying oil to the vent is about as useful as applying it to the birds left ear.

The egg will be lodged in the uterus or shell gland, oil on the vent only makes you feel better it does nothing for the bird apart from give it an oily vent!

The general approach is:

· Get the bird in a warm environment - about
28 - 30 0C

· Raise the humidity to greater than 80% relative humidity

· Crop needle the bird with a dose of Poly Aid
Plus with some Calcivet added

· Keep Spark Electrovet in the drinking water.

· Monitor the bird for 24 hours. If there is no improvement then get help.

When we have the egg out we must then think about what else could be happening in those birds. Often they have a severe uterine infection.

Proving this in the live bird is difficult, so you should treat them all as if they have an infection. Give them either injectable antibiotics (Psittavet) or twice daily doses of Amtyl for three days. Eliminating uterine infections will improve the birds chance of laying normally.

The other medical problem these birds suffer is acute, severe inflammation of the uterus or shell gland. This may lead to scar or adhesion formation.

I always give a large dose of potent anti inflammatory (Avigesic) when treating these birds. Prevention is always more economical than treatment. Be prepared to change things in your aviary (or for individual hens) if you have a recurrent problem.

1 - over fat hens will bind more frequently than fit hens.

2 - birds that lack adequate calcium or Vitamin D3 will bind because their muscles are not strong enough to expel the egg. A bird that binds with a soft shelled egg generally has a calcium/D3 deficiency. Breeders should be on a Calcium /Vit D3 supplement (Calcivet) during the egg laying period.

3 - a multitude of diet factors can cause egg laying problems. Reassess your diet with someone who has knowledge of avian nutritional needs.

4 - recurrent infections (misshapen, malformed eggs are often due to uterine infections) - you need veterinary advice. Just as “oils ain’t oils”, antibiotics ain’t antibiotics, some are better at penetrating into the uterus than others.

5 - if a hen egg binds in two successive seasons, she should be culled from your breeding programme.



Complications After Egg Binding
(From Issue 4 VetaClub Newsletter)
VETAFARM
Office Address 3 Bye Street Wagga Wagga NSW, 2650 AUSTRALIA
Postal Address PO BOX 5244 Wagga Wagga NSW 2650 AUSTRALIA
Tel: (02)69 256 222 Fax: (02)69 256 333
Email: vetafarm@vetafarm.com.au
www.vetafarm.com.au


All of this information is excellent..it tells us the symptoms and the treatment...
Cheers
Looloo :)


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