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 Post subject: Poo question (photo)
PostPosted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 11:23 am 
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Dapper Duck
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Sorry if you've just had breakfast but when I went out this morning I found this on the roost of my nine week old NH named Chilli. Last week I lost my younger chick to cocci (I think) so Chilli had a five day course of sulaquin and a one day course of molasses which ended on Monday so she has been on plain water for two days. She still has an occasional sneeze and a very small amount of clear liquid from her nose which I assumed was a bit of flu following the cocci. Her eyes are clear and she doesn't appear to have lost any condition so I was hoping the flu would clear on it's own. She seems happy and is eating & drinking. She is still only eating grower pallets but I continue to try different treats until she gets use to them. She was free range most of Sunday and then free ranges for an hour or two in the afternoons but spends her days in the coop. I have noticed a fair bit of itching or preening. I have no idea if this is normal or not. I could see no evidence of lice or mites but gave her her first dusting of powder last night just incase. I also added some apple cider vinegar to her water last night to help with the flu symptoms.

Up until this morning her droppings have seemed normal from what I have read & seen on the forum. Any ideas what might have caused this and what I should do?

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 11:30 am 
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Fiesty Fowl
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Fortunately for me, my chooks have been pretty healthy, but im guessing continuing the sulpaquin for a while might be beneficial.

Hopefully Mike will come along soon and give you some more detailed advice

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 5:18 pm 
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Junior Champion Bird
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I can probably help a little as Ive just been through a bad case of cocci in my young flock.You need to lock her up preferably off the ground so she does not pick at her poo and put her back on the Sulphaquin.No more free ranging as she is probably reinfecting or still has the original problem.Cocci takes a few weeks to get over and she needs to be kept confined and warm with just her chick feed and the Sulphaquin.Its important to keep the protein level down so no treaties as this feeds the cocci.
It may be beneficial as she still seems to be infected to put her on Chicken07s low protein mix.I will go and see if I can find the measurements of everything.Mine really loved it and when I put them back on chickbits they were most disappointed :lol:

Good luck...this is a rotten disease and its a case of cruel to be kind by keeping her where she cant reinfect herself.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 5:29 pm 
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Junior Champion Bird
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viewto ... ?t=7965857

Have a read of this thread.Dont take any notice of my panicking.There is so much information from members and also Chicken07s recipe.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 8:18 pm 
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Dapper Duck
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Thanks for the advice and link to the thread. I actually read the thread the other day when my little one was sick and it helped alot. I've never had chooks before so I thought it was better for Chilli to free range than stay in her coop. I clean twice a day but figured there were probably more germs in the coop than outside. She wont be happy but I'll keep her confined. Started her back on the sulpaquin this afternoon. Any idea whether I should be treating for Caecal or Intestinal Coccidiosis? The bottle I have shows both types with different dosage directions. I followed intestinal last time. 5 days at 5ml. Caecal is 2 days at 6ml then retreat after 3 days on plain water.


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 8:40 pm 
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Junior Champion Bird
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nickelette wrote:
Thanks for the advice and link to the thread. I actually read the thread the other day when my little one was sick and it helped alot. I've never had chooks before so I thought it was better for Chilli to free range than stay in her coop. I clean twice a day but figured there were probably more germs in the coop than outside. She wont be happy but I'll keep her confined. Started her back on the sulpaquin this afternoon. Any idea whether I should be treating for Caecal or Intestinal Coccidiosis? The bottle I have shows both types with different dosage directions. I followed intestinal last time. 5 days at 5ml. Caecal is 2 days at 6ml then retreat after 3 days on plain water.


It could be any one of quite a few types.I put mine originally on 6ml and continued on until I was forced to change to Baycox as Sulphaquin didnt work on the strain my chicks had.From the advice and what I have read on BYP it does not hurt to leave your bird on the meds until there is no sign of the cocci.Its poo checking for you :lol:

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 9:10 pm 
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Dapper Duck
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Thanks. I'll stick with 5ml until the morning poos look like the evening poos. Talking of poo. Do you have any idea if caramel ones are good or bad?


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 Post subject: caecal poo
PostPosted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 10:17 pm 
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Site Administrator
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Chickens will produce a caramel coloured caecal poo once per day and that's normal, so the odd one like that is fine. The caeca is a blind pocket in the intestine that gets emptied daily.

If your chicks are holding their own, maintain your current treatment level, but if you keep having problems or they deteriorate, increase the dose to the cecal treatment level. Remember to keep the cage totally dry and very clean. Remember that they can still have the disease even if you are not seeing bleeding in the droppings. Also observe the behaviour. If she is hunched up, fluffy around the neck, head pulled in, tail down - then she's still sick.

Best wishes :D

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 05, 2008 8:48 pm 
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Dapper Duck
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Thanks. I thought a caramel one was ok but wanted to make sure. No bloody poos today. All normal looking ones. She is looking good. No fluffing or drooping. Head & tail up. Alert & active. Eating & drinking. I'll keep on with sulphaquin for another week and see how she goes. Thanks to everyone for their advice.


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 12:00 pm 
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Great Game
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Nickelette,
I put your poo picture in the "Chook poo picture" stickie at the top of the forum as it is a good clear photo and a good addition to the 'poo photo library' (always helpful to have examples to view).

Ruff posted this reply to your picture, in the stickie thread, so here it is so you can read this advice also:

ruff wrote:
9 weeks old the birds should have been wormed. with this hot wet humid weather worms as well as coccidiosis is a big problem. looks like a worm of some description in the dropping as well as blood so i would use a wormer that will do round worms as well as tape worm like avitrol PLUS.

i would also give the bird bread soaked in a sour milk or yougurt.

preening is natural. the birds have to preen the dander off their new feathers. if you notice on the ground where the bird has been preening white feather dander. if you look at the feathers you will see new feathers growing and as they open out a white waxy coating is fallig away.

everyone should be worming chicks regularly in this weather. starting at about 6 weeks. coccidiosis can become immune to the coccidiostat being used, do consider changing it or keeping a different type on hand in case the medicated feed fails.

signs of worms and coccidiosis are very much the same. if one does not appear to work then quickly use the other.

signs:

blood in droppings, pale face, droopy wings, failure to thrive, appearing to be eating but just sifting through food, unkempt appearance.

feed goes off very quickly in this weather and also looses its nutritional quality hence store correctly and have a high turn over (like weekly). ensure you check the useby date and complain if the feed merchants and manufactureres if they expect it to be good for 6 months. unless they are storing it in cool dry conditions there is no way feed can last a month in good order.

hope that helps.

k


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 3:27 pm 
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Dapper Duck
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Thanks Sammiiz.

Thanks for your advice Ruff. So happy to hear preening is normal. I haven't wormed them because I read that you shouldn't worm them until 12 weeks of age. What should I do? They are still on Sulphaquin. Day three today. They look happy, eating & drinking. Chilli still has an occasional cough/sneeze. All normal poos.

Should I stop the Sulphaquin for a day or two then worm them or should I leave them on the Sulaphuin for five days then two days molasses and then worm them? Can I sulphaquin & worm at the same time in different water containers?

The wormer I have is Avitrol Plus. I'll try the bread but she still isn't eating treats from me. Just eats her chick grower.

I am storing the chick grower in a plastic rubbish bin which is under a verandah. I buy a new bag each time I need one but I'll check the use by date on the bags next time I go down to the store. I have a quick question about feed.
Is it ok for their feed container to be in the sun for a few hours during the day or should it be in the shade at all times?


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2008 3:13 pm 
vitamins break down in heat and humidity. cracked corn looses most of its vitamins by 3 days (if it had any to start with). it is important to follow the rules of human food storage with animals...cool, covered and dry. it is not just the organisms that can get in but the loss of nutrient and the fact that animal protiens go rancid and hasten the break down of certain other vitamins.

sniffs and snuffles are a sign the birds are not well and vitamin levels and careful husbandary is essential as they can progress to more chronic conditions. poor nutrition can expose birds to respiratory like diseases. clear nasal discharge is indicative of viral infection that cannot be treated with antibiotics. the affected birds should be treated with care like increased vitamins and good clean dry warm housing as well as no bullying by other birds or stress from other sectors.

i think it would be a good idea to remove the sulphaquin and use wormer, i have never found it effective with coccidiosis, you are better off giving soured milk. i find keystat the most effective and always have it on hand for an emergency.

k


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2008 6:40 pm 
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Dapper Duck
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Thanks Ruff. Should I give them a break before starting the wormer or start straight away?


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PostPosted: Mon Dec 08, 2008 6:43 pm 
no i think the worming is too important to hold off. the damage from worms on chicks that age can be very long lasting. that is why i am recomending the sour milk/yoghurt to trat any coccidiosis and knock over the worms at the same time.

the day after worming you should notice faces being much brighter.

k


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 23, 2008 10:28 pm 
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Gallant Game
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Ruff, am I reading that right, you're feeding soured milk/yoghurt to treat cocci rather than the sulpha medication? Any idea why that works?

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